Key #34: A Bashful Wonder

While wonders of the mind - such as language or some traditions and attitudes - might be subtle, physical wonders are easy to spot, be they natural or man-made. One literally knows a majestic temple, a magnificent mountain, an imposing monument or just a regular museum when (s)he sees one. Unless that happens in Naramachi… I knew I was close to my destination but I wasn't sure where exactly to look for it - so I asked a random shop-owner. “Naramachi?” - She smiled and drew a big circle in the air with her hand. “It's everywhere around us. We are in the middle of it!”

“Naramachi” literally translates as “Nara Town”, and it's a Japanese version of an Open-Air Museum, “Japanese” being equivalent to “original”. The exhibits are neither replicas built specifically to represent the lifestyle and the culture of the past (as is the case with Norwegian Museum of Cultural History), nor original houses transported from all over the country to an arbitrarily chosen location to create Gamle Bergen. Instead, there is a dozen or so actual houses turned into exhibits right where they have been for decades, if not centuries. Nigiwae-No-Ie on the above picture is one such house, and - as its name ("A House of Prosperity" or “A Bustling House”) suggests - a perfect introduction to Naramachi. Being prosperous and/or full of activity provides for a richer variety of insights and experiences, the most authentic and, arguably, important of them being tokonoma. 

Formally speaking, the word means “an alcove for the display of a decorative object” but its significance goes far beyond just being elegant, stylish and pleasing to the eye. In fact, tokonoma is responsible for many things Japanese. Social relationships and etiquette, to start with: that's where the host sits while receiving guests - or a place offered to the most important guest. Self-control: that's where a Japanese person would often come, when upset, to restore hir “wa” - inner harmony - through meditation and appreciation of beauty. Spirituality and cultural identity: the object on display is usually related to Japanese traditional skills, such as calligraphy or ikebana, or art. Even psychology: presumably, it's the tokonoma many Japanese people miss the most when being homesick.

Another essential characteristic of an authentic Japanese house is an abundance of space. Big or small, such houses are never crammed - some rooms are completely devoid of objects, while other make even most ordinary objects look like works of art,

while actual works of art are grouped together and put on display

and sometimes so are clothes, too

Somewhat surprisingly, “space” doesn't always imply “height”: the following opening would be likely perceived as exaggerated even in a teahouse where every guest is expected to pay homage to the host and the spirit of the ceremony itself; in a regular house, it looks rather puzzling

Last but very far from least - and probably on par with tokonoma - is a private garden. They are usually quite small, for objective reasons, but it's their very smallness that enhances their artistic impression. A natural riot of shapes and hues - or brighter colours, depending on the season - they deliver multiple punches way beyond their weight exactly because of being so packed (in complete contrast with the rest of the house)

The garden is literally attached to the house, so one can enjoy it even in passing…