ArticleKey #29: Flexibility

While it's likely the first appearance of the actual word "flexibility" in these notes, the spirit of it permeates almost each and every entry. Whenever Japan is offered a choice - be it between a town and a mountain, or between reverence and mockery, or even between the past and the future - it chooses both! Strictly speaking, this entry could be justifiably titled “Embracing Both Options” or “The Best of Both Worlds”. In that respect, the above picture is quite telling: it features Tochoji Temple in Fukuoka - one of the oldest temples in Japan (and the oldest one belonging to the Shingon school of Buddhism), and blinds aren't usually associated with ancient temples. Neither are they a part of Tochoji, but the illusion is almost immaculate, because that 9th century temple blends perfectly into a typical modern neighbourhood - so much so that it's hard to believe the navigator when it advises that “the destination is 100 meters ahead, on the right side”.

Along with Zojoji Temple in Tokyo, Tochoji is yet another prominent example of “straddling the border between the past and the future” - not only because of its location but also due to the most famous attraction it showcases. It took 4 years to create “The Great Buddha of Fukuoka" that was finished…in 1992 - almost 1200 years after the temple itself had been built!

The statue is officially designated as “Japanese Largest Seated Buddha” - a perfect case of “linguistic diplomacy” that is closely related to flexibility. Just like the temple is not exactly the oldest in Japan but definitely the oldest among those belonging to a particular school, the Buddha is the undisputed champion…in a particular category. The truth hasn't been infringed upon - yet, the Buddha has every reason to stand (or, in this case, to sit) taller.

Like most temples in Japan, Tochoji is immersed in beauty - in shape and form of both nature

and architecture

The most interesting of the so-to-say “retinue structures” is, arguably, Rokkakudo - a “Buddhist sanctum with revolving bookshelves for sutra”. It's open to the public exactly 12 days a year - on the 28th of each month.

Saving the best for last, there is a hilarious and highly creative exhibition titled “The Path Between Heaven and Hell”. It starts with a series of pictures featuring cartoonish demons that are busy torturing even cartoonisher humans. It ends with a picture of a radiant Buddha offering protection from demons. However, the heart and soul of the exhibition is the middle part - a pitch-dark tunnel one has to navigate to complete the path. But for a handrail, coming to Buddha could really be one of lifetime experiences, even for the bravest and most confident. To be fair to the creative minds behind the idea, it's quite an experience, even as it is. To do it full justice, one has to be there because words don't even begin to describe the sensation. Pictures might try - and fail…