ArticleKey #17: Osaka Castle

Castles are predominantly military structures but many of them flirt with human sciences and fine arts by being architectural masterpieces steeped in history. Osaka Castle fits the description and goes far beyond it - at least, for those who read “Shogun”.

Strictly speaking, the book describes the castle as a seat of power and a treasury full of immense riches collected throughout the realm. However, there is a distinct mystical - almost mythical - quality to it, too: it is perceived as a forbidding creature with its own will, its spread endless, its spiritual energy protecting its current occupiers. It is not incidental that the future Shogun would avoid a decisive battle until/unless he managed to lure his archrival out of the castle…

It's the book-created background that both prepares one for a future encounter with the castle, and is responsible for an involuntary shock when that encounter actually happens. The above picture is quite representative, even if doesn't provide a detailed view of the main attraction: most guidebooks and such refer to it as “a castle and a park”. There is more than one park, too (some of them are called “gardens”). The endless spread is there, as expected, but not a remnant of anything "forbidding". In fact, it might be one of the friendliest and most welcoming places in the already friendliest and most welcoming country. A party place equally drawing outdoorsy kids,

aquaphiles,

fun-lovers

and cosplay practitioners, 

not to forget history buffs.

There are many ways to tell about history. It can be made scary, entertaining, dry and matter-of-factly; it can sound almost like a fairy-tale or be approached analytically as if it were a mathematical equation. Japanese approach to history is what might be called “photographic”. Human history is full of bloodshed and cruelty, and that of Japan is no exception. Individual Japanese might be emotional and take sides, or they might choose to be indifferent and literally let the past bury its dead. As a nation, Japan does what its DNA bids it to: it displays loyalty - and, in terms of history, “loyalty” means presenting things exactly as they were. That's why several floors of Osaka Castle are covered wall-to-wall with pictures and paintings like that

Actual timelines, actual appearances, succinct comments. Family trees and master-vassal relations. Undoubtedly matter-of-factly but not dry - maybe, because portrayed individuals somehow let their emotions come forth and break through paper or canvas. And so do figurines, hundreds and hundreds of them.

Key battle scenes presented exactly as they were, based on historical evidence. Colours, weapons, battle order - meticulous to the last detail. There is plenty of information regarding the battle itself - its cause, participants, developments and outcome - but…it suddenly feels irrelevant, at least for the moment. Art takes over from the very history it is explaining - and carries the day.