<a href="/blog/key-24-the-father-figure">Sumiyoshi Shrine in Fukuoka</a> is one of about 80,000 shrines in Japan. Neat and welcoming, quiet and somewhat quaint, clearly marked by distinctive red gates symbolizing the borderline between the world of men and the realm of gods - it is likely a typical representation of most of Japanese shrines. However, there are several that take it to an altogether different level.&nbsp;As red gates are placed at a shrine entrance, there is usually no more than two or three of them per shrine (often, just one). Fushimi Inari Shrine in southern Kyoto sports thousands of such gates - next to and, almost literally, on top of each other - each being a donation, each donor's name inscribed on the back of the gate.<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730578944/7kwonders/DSCF_3169_607cb69615.jpg" alt="DSCF3169.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730578944/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_3169_607cb69615.jpg 177w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730578944/7kwonders/small_DSCF_3169_607cb69615.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730578944/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_3169_607cb69615.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730578944/7kwonders/large_DSCF_3169_607cb69615.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">The shrine is among the most important and popular in Japan, and it owes its significance to its divine patron. Inari is a Shinto god of rice, a synonym of “wealth” and “prosperity” for Japan, and his shrine would draw thousands upon thousands of pilgrims praying for a bountiful harvest. With a following like that, the god could afford being different - and flaunting his difference. To start with, he would employ foxes as personal messengers - and there are almost as many foxes around Fushimi grounds as there are red gates<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730580790/7kwonders/DSCF_3036_51ba9c6ce4.jpg" alt="DSCF3036.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730580789/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_3036_51ba9c6ce4.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730580790/7kwonders/small_DSCF_3036_51ba9c6ce4.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730580790/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_3036_51ba9c6ce4.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730580790/7kwonders/large_DSCF_3036_51ba9c6ce4.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">The grounds themselves cannot possibly be mistaken for a park, either. They are much more similar to a mountainous forest that, but for multiple stairs built to accommodate throngs of pilgrims and tourists, would be perfect for mountain biking. Even as it is, the area provides excellent opportunities for exercising, as a trip to the sanctuary up the mountain and back might take more than three hours, all the while rewarding newly-minted “athletes” with plenty of fresh air and occasional spectacular views of Kyoto &nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730583328/7kwonders/DSCF_3091_395615ea90.jpg" alt="DSCF3091.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730583327/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_3091_395615ea90.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730583327/7kwonders/small_DSCF_3091_395615ea90.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730583327/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_3091_395615ea90.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730583328/7kwonders/large_DSCF_3091_395615ea90.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">Last but definitely not least, there is the upper sanctuary itself - the pinnacle of the trip to the shrine, in more than one sense.&nbsp;<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730588230/7kwonders/DSCF_3078_85e8746edf.jpg" alt="DSCF3078.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730588229/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_3078_85e8746edf.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730588230/7kwonders/small_DSCF_3078_85e8746edf.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730588230/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_3078_85e8746edf.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1730588230/7kwonders/large_DSCF_3078_85e8746edf.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">A complex and somewhat mysterious construction that is likely to be perceived in a very different way by devotees of Inari - as opposed to random tourists. One can't help belonging to the latter tribe but, based on my personal experience, it's worth trying to step into the former's spiritual shoes - and to pretend to yourself that the climb has been more than just an aerobic exercise with a view (or many views). Retracing pilgrims' steps with a right mindset really helps to connect to the core of the country and its unique and ancient culture.&nbsp;

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Key#25: A "Red Gates Riot"

There are many ways to summarize human history. Long lists of rulers and events, and somewhat shorter lists of prominent personalities and breakthrough discoveries is one such option - yet, considering that brevity isn't only the soul of wit but also the sister of Talent, one liners might be a better choice. Optimists could say that “history of humanity is a history of technological progress, while pessimists would rather go for ”history of wars and violence". That leaves realists who are likely to conclude that “human history is a history of beliefs”, because it's our beliefs that make us shoot (at) each other or shoot for the stars. Those beliefs are sometimes incorrectly referred to as “religion”.Humans created gods because they were facing the Great Unknown, and they were scared and confused. They needed helpers and protectors, and many protectors are better than just one - that's how polytheism was born. It had acquitted itself quite well over centuries of primeval and ancient history, while inspiring literature and arts, and occasionally drawing a laugh or two. It all changed when the “poly” part in “polytheism” was displaced by “mono”: the laughter was gone, driven away by “fear of God” - a concept that completely defeated the purpose of having created gods, to start with. Houses of God followed suit, as both churches and mosques were often quite magnificent - and their very grandeur emphasized the smallness and insignificance of those who visited them. Japan's biggest and most important spiritual achievement (and wonder!) is that it managed to dodge the trend and prevent its spiritual beliefs from being reduced to “faith”.&nbsp;What sets personal beliefs apart from rigid faith, is implied communication - be it occasional <a href="/blog/key-10-selective-irreverence">good-natured irreverence</a> or a <a href="/blog/key-11-divine-buddies">routine bow-clap-bow ceremony</a> While dealing with deities, humans can be naughty, naive, sly (sometimes naive and sly, at the same time), but mostly respectful and almost always loving - and if you think about it, that's exactly how preschoolers behave! Offering a deity a small coin, bowing, then clapping to get its attention isn't that different from saying “I love you, Daddy” just before reaching for a cookie jar, proclaiming to be a “good boy”, or throwing a crying fit - respectively. Unlike monotheistic gods, whatever their names may be, Lord Buddha and a host of kamis can be reasoned with or even manipulated. That doesn't prevent them from being powerful and wise, as well as kind - a dream father figure helping to create a welcoming family atmosphere.&nbsp;The red gates on the above picture is the most widespread and recognizable symbol of that atmosphere. They mark an entrance to a shrine, and every Japanese knows that, once through them, there will be peace, quiet and beauty of all kinds - from a cute humpy bridge<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904531/7kwonders/DSCF_4871_5d5e72ff41.jpg" alt="DSCF4871.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904531/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_4871_5d5e72ff41.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904531/7kwonders/small_DSCF_4871_5d5e72ff41.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904531/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_4871_5d5e72ff41.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904531/7kwonders/large_DSCF_4871_5d5e72ff41.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">to a richly decorated main hall full of poise and dignity,<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904657/7kwonders/DSCF_4869_41c3f3bd8a.jpg" alt="DSCF4869.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904656/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_4869_41c3f3bd8a.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904657/7kwonders/small_DSCF_4869_41c3f3bd8a.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904657/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_4869_41c3f3bd8a.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904657/7kwonders/large_DSCF_4869_41c3f3bd8a.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">not to forget a variety of uniquely Japanese trees<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904881/7kwonders/DSCF_4876_6bcd5a42f9.jpg" alt="DSCF4876.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904879/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_4876_6bcd5a42f9.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904881/7kwonders/small_DSCF_4876_6bcd5a42f9.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904880/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_4876_6bcd5a42f9.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729904880/7kwonders/large_DSCF_4876_6bcd5a42f9.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">It's easy to forget that one finds hirself in a shrine, not in yet another park - hence the unusual reminder bringing a smile to many visitors' lips<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729905243/7kwonders/DSCF_4874_c62b8f22a4.jpg" alt="DSCF4874.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729905242/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_4874_c62b8f22a4.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729905243/7kwonders/small_DSCF_4874_c62b8f22a4.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729905243/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_4874_c62b8f22a4.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729905243/7kwonders/large_DSCF_4874_c62b8f22a4.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">&nbsp;

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Key #24: The Father Figure

“Do not see yourself as belonging either in the past or in the present. Instead, imagine yourself straddling the border between the past and the future” (gained in translation).Its full name is Zojoji/Zojo Temple. It's 950 meters and 565 years away from Tokyo Tower, but the above picture reveals nothing of either the physical or temporal distance. As far as that picture is concerned, the symbol of Edo and the symbol of Tokyo are right next to each, and they coexist in perfect harmony - even though the former wasn't even created in Edo. Tokugawa Ieyasu (arguably, the most persistent feature of these notes) chanced upon the old temple and liked it so much that he ordered it transported to his new capital. Later, the leader of the Tokugawa clan developed quite a relationship with the building and its premises: Zojoji's main Buddha statue - the so-called "Black Buddha" - became Ieyasu's lucky charm responsible for all his military success, and one of the adjacent gardens turned into his family's burial ground.<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729285361/7kwonders/DSCF_1468_0ee803d391.jpg" alt="DSCF1468.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729285361/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_1468_0ee803d391.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729285361/7kwonders/small_DSCF_1468_0ee803d391.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729285361/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_1468_0ee803d391.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729285362/7kwonders/large_DSCF_1468_0ee803d391.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">The garden is full of contradictions. Six out of fifteen Tokugawa shoguns are buried there, and the atmosphere is solemn enough to show Death its proper respect - yet, it's strangely uplifting, too. The weight of history brings sadness and ruminations but both are tinged with beauty and even admiration for that intrinsic order that comes with a perfectly shaped space (in this case, it's a rectangle dotted with spaced out tombs that look more like pieces of art than messengers of Death). &nbsp;"Tokugawa garden" is not the only proof that Zojoji's knows its way around Death. Another example of the temple's uncanny ability to deal with the Grim Reaper, lighten its burden, and almost turn it into art, is the "Garden of Unborn Children". According to Japanese mythology, stillborn children and those who are lost to miscarriages or abortions, are plagued by demons preventing them from reaching afterlife. The only force able to defeat those demons is Jizobosatsu - a powerful protector assigned by Buddha himself to ensure such children's safe passage. The garden is full of stone statues representing Jizo - and of toys and other gifts left by grateful parents. The most universal of such gifts is a knit hat (depending on the workload, Jizo might have to work around the clock, and Japanese nights can be cold…). Both the garden's name and its story are truly heartrending, and yet, the atmosphere in the garden is light, almost festive.&nbsp;<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308251/7kwonders/DSCF_1455_400b201e29.jpg" alt="DSCF1455.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308250/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_1455_400b201e29.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308251/7kwonders/small_DSCF_1455_400b201e29.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308251/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_1455_400b201e29.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308251/7kwonders/large_DSCF_1455_400b201e29.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">&nbsp;<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308286/7kwonders/DSCF_1454_3bfe6855c9.jpg" alt="DSCF1454.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308286/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_1454_3bfe6855c9.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308286/7kwonders/small_DSCF_1454_3bfe6855c9.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308286/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_1454_3bfe6855c9.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729308286/7kwonders/large_DSCF_1454_3bfe6855c9.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">While straddling the borders between life and death, as well as between the past and the future, Zojoji doesn't forget about its primary duty as a temple - and here one video is really worth many words…<div class="raw-html-embed"><video controls="" classname="aspect-video">
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</div>In addition to history, philosophy, spirituality and healing, there is culture and actual art. Zojoji hosts special exhibitions, and the one I chanced upon, had come from Buckingham Palace in London. It was inaugurated by a royalty who happened to be visiting Tokyo at that time…<img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312039/7kwonders/DSCF_1507_50bfed5e5c.jpg" alt="DSCF1507.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312039/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_1507_50bfed5e5c.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312039/7kwonders/small_DSCF_1507_50bfed5e5c.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312039/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_1507_50bfed5e5c.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312040/7kwonders/large_DSCF_1507_50bfed5e5c.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312093/7kwonders/DSCF_1510_bcab1bc963.jpg" alt="DSCF1510.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312092/7kwonders/thumbnail_DSCF_1510_bcab1bc963.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312092/7kwonders/small_DSCF_1510_bcab1bc963.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312092/7kwonders/medium_DSCF_1510_bcab1bc963.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dpwp8vga3/image/upload/v1729312092/7kwonders/large_DSCF_1510_bcab1bc963.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw">

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